Marcus.P
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« Reply #45 on: February 27, 2011, 12:08:47 AM » |
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Has anyone used the MIP diff rebuild kits?
on the mip diff yes on the ae diff no.. b fast diffs are the way to go.. even just sanding the rings is better. www.bfastrc.com
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- Marcus Plumlee -
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pakk
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« Reply #46 on: February 27, 2011, 12:34:13 AM » |
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How many bfast diffs have you built?
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vr6cj
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« Reply #47 on: February 27, 2011, 01:10:58 AM » |
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I've had the bfast stuff in a few cars and there awesome. In fact the SC10 Mike has, has them in it. The one I sold him.
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Marcus.P
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« Reply #48 on: February 27, 2011, 12:06:29 PM » |
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How many bfast diffs have you built?
i have built 3 b fast diffs now.
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twsjeep
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« Reply #49 on: March 12, 2011, 08:26:15 PM » |
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Hey all I did a complete Diff build the other day. It felt like crap but I thought Oh what do I know first rebuild Ive done in umpteen years maybe it needs to break in. Ran it today and Mike says man that thing feels rough. I get home and dig into it again. I go thru every ball and flip the diff rings still rough. Diff rings are flipped and I never tighten them to death. I rub just the diff rings together they are rough. So I throw in my old diff rings and it works perfect. Anyone have any problems with Associated Diff Rings???
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Marcus.P
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« Reply #50 on: March 12, 2011, 08:32:12 PM » |
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i have been sanding them down. to make them flat.
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- Marcus Plumlee -
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vr6cj
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« Reply #51 on: March 12, 2011, 08:35:55 PM » |
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yeah, some rlly fine sandpaper and wd40 is what I use to sand them. Or you could get the Bfast stuff and forget bout it.
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twsjeep
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« Reply #52 on: March 16, 2011, 08:54:25 AM » |
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I emailed associated about the diff rings being rough (i know its a $2 item). He said he uses 600 grit sandpaper to smooth them out. So my understanding is that yes there is a problem with associated diff rings and if you buy them you will have to do this to them. Whatever the case I threw my old diff rings in and im very pleased now.
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Motomike
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« Reply #53 on: March 16, 2011, 10:29:10 AM » |
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Here is the bfast link too: http://www.bfastrc.com/associated.html with free shipping. I have never had this problem with the associated diff rings but I might just start using the bfast stuff anyway. I have the associated parts now so I'll see how those work.
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Marcus.P
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« Reply #54 on: March 16, 2011, 12:21:32 PM » |
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ok so i am running dereks b4 setup pretty much with the t4 chassis on the car.
i need to up the shock oils now because it is scrubing on everything even across the grass in my front yard it hits a bump and smacks the t plate lol
going to try 35 front and back. with the same pistons.
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- Marcus Plumlee -
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vr6cj
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« Reply #55 on: March 16, 2011, 06:54:37 PM » |
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Here is the bfast link too: http://www.bfastrc.com/associated.html with free shipping. I have never had this problem with the associated diff rings but I might just start using the bfast stuff anyway. I have the associated parts now so I'll see how those work. Mike your sc10 I sold you has the bfast stuff in it.
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MotorMouth
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« Reply #56 on: March 16, 2011, 06:57:12 PM » |
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Marcus are you still running 25 weight in the rear for shock oil? If so try like 27.5 or 30. I noticed when I ran 25 weight in the rear it would slap on occasion and have to much rear roll. When I tried 27 it seemed to take all of that way and I am still personally considering 30 weight in the rear.
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Team Tekin, Panther Tires USA, Upgrade RC, DE Racing, The Unknown Painter, Modesto RC Raceway
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Marcus.P
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« Reply #57 on: March 16, 2011, 07:59:47 PM » |
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Marcus are you still running 25 weight in the rear for shock oil? If so try like 27.5 or 30. I noticed when I ran 25 weight in the rear it would slap on occasion and have to much rear roll. When I tried 27 it seemed to take all of that way and I am still personally considering 30 weight in the rear.
yes running 25ae oil ill try 30 first
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MotorMouth
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« Reply #58 on: April 04, 2011, 04:34:58 PM » |
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Alright I just felt I should share my latest setup that I used last weekend.
Front-
AE 30 weight oil (350 CST) #1 Piston, 2 Shims for droop Outside hole on Arm Middle hole on tower for shock position 30 degrees caster Inner Position on Bulkhead, 1mm shim underneath ball stud Brown front spring
Rear-
25 weight oil #2 piston, 2 1mm shim in shock for droop Middle wheelbase Center hole on rear hub Inner mounting hole on rear bulkhead 1mm shim underneath 3 degree rear toe green rear springs
I think that is it. Car was dialed but had a slight push. Things to try would be leaning in your front shocks, trying 27.5 oil in the rear, or even a stiffer rear spring like silver. I ran one degree of camber all corners.
Made a few changes to this setup this past weekend if any of you are interested. I went to 35 weight oil in the front and 30 rear. 2mm shim under front ballstud. Lastly I raised the shocks on the tower one hole all 4 corners.
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MotorMouth
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« Reply #59 on: April 04, 2011, 04:54:46 PM » |
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Hey Johnny. I run a little under an ounce in the rear of my buggy and that is it. I moved them out one hole on the tower. They are centered on the tower. I have been running my ride height at about 24mm front and rear. Sometimes I might run my ride height 24mm front and anywere from 23 to 23.5 mm in the rear to gain traction. This would work well in the dusty conditions when the track is not watered. Hope that helps.
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Team Tekin, Panther Tires USA, Upgrade RC, DE Racing, The Unknown Painter, Modesto RC Raceway
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