Well here it is, my STRC LCG Slash. The "Super Slash" I have dubbed it. 
This vehicle has taken a long time to get to this point. I have slowly been upgrading and changing things over the last few years with this Slash. It was once a bone stock Slash. Many will argue why waste the time and money on a Slash when you can just buy an SC10 or Blitz or XXX-sct. Well there are two parts to that answer for me.
Back when my son and I decided to get back into the hobby the Slash was the dominate SCT on the market, the truck that started the whole SCT craze to begin with. The SC10 hadn't came out yet and the Slash seamed a great entry level truck for my son. The Slash is known for taking lots of abuse as Traxxas has made it very tough with the basher market in mind. This fact was also a selling point for me knowing my sons poor driving skills I could rest assured that this tuck would take some punishment at the track. Also at the time it was nice to know that Modesto Hobby stocks lots of Traxxas parts as they currently still stock very little Team Associated stuff.
The second part is that its a personal challenge to prove that this truck can be made race-able. I guess its the constant enjoyment of tinkering with something and upgrading that is half the fun also. The Slash has lots of option and upgrade parts not just for racing but bashing as well as being a platform for many other wild projects people have done over the years. Its kinda like the RC10 of today I guess. I guess another part to this is the underdog syndrome. Its great to beat up on guys with this truck.
My son has unfortunately decided to quite racing however and I have since taken over the truck. He might come back to racing some day.
Anyway here it is....
This pic shows the STRC LCG kit that is used with the Rustler chassis.
If you look close you can see the top plate is carbon fiber which is an upgrade. Here is a link to the STRC kit I used. This kit basically just makes the Rustler chassis longer to makes it just a little bit shorter then the stock Slash length. They come in more colors then blue BTW.
STRC Slash LCG kitHowever like I said above I ordered the light weight kit which came out awhile after the original kit. Here is a link to that....
STRC Light Weight kitTo use this kit you will need the Rustler Chassis, top plate and battery strap.
Rustler ChassisRustler top plateBattery hold downThis pic shows a few shock mods I have made.
The stock Ultra Shocks come with plastic shock caps that are notorious for popping off with a hard impact the cap flexes enough to let loose. A simple fix for this is to upgrade to the Traxxas aluminum caps (which they sell in a few colors). Some people think that you need to replace the entire shock with something more expensive. I have had great success with the stock shocks and they are actually lighter then the big bores. I also upgraded the shock shafts to the Titanium nitride ones as the stock steel shafts will bend over time. I have also done away with the stock progressive rate springs and went with linear rate Losi Greens on all corners. And the last shock mod I have done is to remove the stock shoulder screw that holds the shock cap to the top of the tower with a bushing and a long screw and nylock nut. This mod eliminates the shoulder screw from falling out and losing suspension during a race. If you do this mod don't tighten the nut all the way down to the bushing, you actually want it to be a little loose so the shock can pivot on the screw.
Traxxas Aluminum Ultra Shock CapTraxxas XX-Long Hardened Steel Shock Shafts rearTraxxas Hardened Shock Shafts frontLosi Shock Springs 2" x 3.5 Rate (Green) frontLosi Shock Springs 2.5” x 3.7 Rate (Green) rearKit with bushing to replace shoulder screwHard to see in this pic but it shows the Pro-Line steering rack and the STRC light weight turnbuckles (made in different colors).
Pro-Line Performance Steering KitST Racing Concepts Aluminum "Pro-Lite" Turnbuckle Kit (Blue)
In the above pic you can see the STRC hing pins kit. This kit eliminates the stock screw in hing pins with ones that have a nut on the other end. These pins stop the annoying hing pin unscrewing issue the stock ones are known for. They are also much harder and as of yet I have not bent them like the stock ones can. I have also removed the right rear tire and gear cover so you can see the STRC top shaft that lets you use the Team Associated spur and slipper unit. You can can also see the RPM rear bumper which is much lighter then the original. In the first pic you can see I'm also using the RPM front bumper, also lighter then stock. Also RPM rear C-hubs that are stronger then stock and lighter then the Traxxas aluminum upgrade ones. Also notice the STRC CVD drive shafts that replace the stock telescoping u-joint shafts. A few things you cant see in this pic that are internal in the gear box are a Traxxas ball diff and machined delrin top gear. Both lighter then stock and make the gear box nice and quite. The Delrin gear I have yet to test on the track, not sure how it will hold up with mod motors but it should be fine in stock which is what I'm building this rig for. The ball diff on the other hand has been working great. Haven't used it with a mod motor though.
ST Racing Concepts Heat Treated Polished Steel Lock Nut Style Hinge Pin Set (Black)ST Racing Concepts CNC Machined Transmission LayshaftRPM Black Rear Bumper (Slash)RPM Front Bumper & Skid Plate (Black) (Slash)RPM Traxxas Rear Bearing CarriersST Racing Concepts Heat Treated Steel Driveshaft KitTraxxas Ball Differential: SRTTraxxas Machined Delrin Drive Gear
The above pic just show the bottom of the STRC kit. It was once nice blue machined anodize. The black you see sticking out to the left past the aluminum is more of the carbon fiber STRC lightening kit.
This pic shows the Traxxas Aluminum caster blocks that I use. If I could get away with using the RPM ones I would because they are cheaper and lighter. But in this situation the Aluminum is needed because the king pin that goes through it must not bend. With a flexible plastic caster block the king pin will bend if there is a hard enough hit to flex the plastic. I have tried both the stock and RPM casters here and the Aluminum ones are the only ones that eliminate this problem. Also in this pic are the RPM steering blocks. Stock ones are fine but eventually break.
Traxxas L/R Aluminim Caster Blocks 30 Deg (Blue)RPM Traxxas Front Bearing Carriers
This just shows the front shocks with the aluminum caps and screw/bushing mod that I did to the rear also. Also shows the front RPM shock tower. The stock rear tower I have yet to break, now that I have said that......
RPM Front Shock Tower (Rustler,Stampede,Bandit,Slash)There are still more ideas I have for this thing.... but until then I think I have typed enough for tonight.
